Less work for you often means more for somebody else. If you like that idea, then just allow what comes naturally. Encourage the Beneficials! This may be the most logical way yet of practicing IPM* (Integrated Pest Management).

Here it is in a nutshell:
Rather than simply killing all of what you may see as pests in your environment, what we refer to as "See & Spray," consider letting them go to work for you. By-passing the obvious strengths in nature that occur without any interference from us (because people often see themselves as the master of their own universe, right?), you may just end up making your job even harder in the long run by going ballistic. Why not work with Mother Nature? See what she has to offer you first. When using IPM you'll look at the environmental factors that affect a given pest and its ability to thrive, in essence working to eradicate the unwanted ones by letting their natural enemies have them for lunch. Looks to be a win-win situation. Perhaps you recall how Blog #1 began.. IF ants are around, they are already working for you...

Basically you find and implement the tools (the know how so to speak) to do what it takes to create the conditions that are unfavorable to these unwanted pests. Meanwhile, you encourage those willing to do the work for you. Rest assured--due to signals other insects or vegetation emit on their own, incidentally ones we cannot see or smell, (by way of pheromones) those with a vested interest (the beneficials) will show up if their particular service is needed. 

Here is a cool story you may enjoy. I once lived in a community that insisted their white pine trees needed to be sprayed (with a very bad actor, no less namely Lindane) because of an infestation of pine beetles. Nothing could have been further from the truth. After much discussion and yours truly not wanting to resort to being ill for them just wanting to spray like always, I then consulted an IPM specialist and an Arborist. It is a good thing I was so stubborn, because having waited taught me it's often best to go with your gut instinct, and here is why: We learned that these trees were at the end of their life cycle, albeit early (about 12 years). These trees were selected by the community builder for being really fast growing and very cheap to plant, but not ideal for the location they were placed in. This poor planning in an effort to save money in the beginning obviously backfired when the trees could have remained healthy at a much higher elevation for  3-4 times as long. It is referred to as White Pine Decline. Now they were faced with a dilemma to not only paying to have the trees removed, but also the added cost of replacing them far ahead of their time. The normal signals (pheromones) the trees put out as they passed the time of survival merely told the beetles (the beneficials) that it was time for them to benefit from the decay the tree was entering into. In a way, the beetles put the trees that are dying out of their misery. Natures Way of telling them something's wrong. Nothing could have saved these trees, so the chemical intervention would have been a waste of money, create an unnecessary chemical exposure and risk, plus contaminate the environment, not to mention prolong the agony of the trees themselves. I find that rather sad. Hence, in this case the "See & Spray" concept would have been a knee jerk response, and one many would regret. 

(Note: What follows is meant to be an introduction only, not a comprehensive listing).

So, let's meet some of the BENEFICIALS!

Bats: (take on a number of foes, even the dreaded mosquito)
http://www.extension.org/pages/42876/how-are-bats-beneficial
Build your own bat house:
http://www.nwf.org/How-to-Help/Garden-for-Wildlife/Gardening-Tips/Build-a-Bat-House.aspx

In case you did not know this, bats sometimes carry rabies, but so do squirrels. Possum and other neighborhood dwellers do as well, like foxes so please do not automatically freak out about bats. We keep bat houses and we don't have any negative issues with them around. Others we know do too without adverse incidents. Technically an exposure risk from Hanta virus (or Leptospirosis) is likely more a risk to you and yours from squirrels and burrowers (like moles, voles and gophers) than your risk of contracting rabies from bats. We will go into more detail on this in a different Blog. For now, try not to worry so much. That you make yourself aware of such things puts you well ahead of the game already.

Birds: (eats bugs and larvae, disperses seeds and often considered the natural cleaning crew)
http://gardenmentors.com/garden-help/birds/attracting-birds-as-beneficials/
Build your own birdhouses and feeders:
http://buildyourownbirdhouseplans.com/index.html

Carabids: aka Ground beetles (natural enemy of slugs and snails, among others)
http://beneficialbugs.org/bugs/Ground_Beetles/ground_beetles.htm

Green Lacewing: (considered the best generalist)
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/lacewings/lacewings.htm

Ladybugs: (got aphids? Here is the most widely recognized and utilized garden beneficial)
http://beneficialinsects101.com/ladybugs.html

Nematodes: (secret underground pest control)
http://www.thebeneficialinsectco.com/beneficial-nematodes.htm

Parasitic & Hunter Wasps: (the specialists- over 100 varieties)
http://www.indepthinfo.com/beneficial-insects/parasitic-wasps.htm

Praying Mantis: (Jack-of-all trades: eats bugs, frogs & even rodents/ they come in all sizes)
http://garden.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Praying_Mantis_Facts

Snakes (ranked #1 to keep rodents from running amuck)
http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/462/

Spiders: (not insects but arachnids are hunters or weavers)
http://www.socalpestadvice.com/2009/12/31/beneficial-bugs-house-and-garden-spiders/

And, there are different sorts of beneficials to consider and encourage..not just the carnivores!

Bumble, honey & Mason bees: (the dependable pollinators)
http://www.indepthinfo.com/beneficial-insects/bees.htm

Earthworms: (the natural composters)
http://www.backyardnature.net/earthwrm.htm

So now that the introductions have been made and you have the basics, let's end with just a couple ECO-Friendly World suggestions to keep the good guys around to work for you!

First, just do not use chemical pesticides (herbicides or insecticides). There are viable alternatives if you really must take that drastic step. The usual suspects are long lasting in the environment, often quite toxic and will surely kill the GOOD GUYS that otherwise prey on those you don't want around. It will also contaminate soil and edible plants. You may further deprive birds and other welcomed wildlife of a safe food source. It contributes to drift and run-off. It may accidentally poison a beloved pet or young child. We have discussed in two previous Blog entries the potential harm to health, which bears repeating now. We need balance in all aspects of our ecosystem. Finally, use mulch to discourage weed growth and to conserve water.

Further, grow as many organic native plants that you can in your environment, those which the GOOD GUYS favor since your desire is to encourage them. Variety is the spice of life afterall. Like: clover, comfrey, marigolds, parsley, sage, sunflowers and rosemary to name a few. When you grow plants native to your area, there is less chance for pest invasion, and less resources needed to grow them in their natural state. This could in turn make less demands on economic resources too with an increased chance for longevity. Create optimal conditions to promote a healthy habitat and varied beneficial populations. Your workers will thrive, so the demands on you will lessen. Perhaps you may have more time to just enjoy what you have, as you maintain your property with added efficiency. It also will just be a healthier place for children and pets, and where family and friends can thrive and prosper. Your home is your haven, a respite. Care for it and its inhabitants well.

Thank you for visiting us and learning more about ways to manage everyday problems we all encounter. Start relying less upon a reactionary approach to problems that arise such as pests, and incorporating IPM principles from our ECO-Friendly World Blog. We do not necessarily endorse the links we selected. We consider them to be a starting point only. Many options are readily available to our readers. Feel free to pick and choose to your own liking. The public library would be a good reference as well. Just try and open yourself up to the possibilities.

We also thank you for learning more about IMHA through Angel Mica and Mirra's advocacy work. The disease we hope to eradicate has taken way too many, including one of our very own. It desperately needs dollars for research to prevent and cure. Anyone who shares their life with companion animals knows the ultimate joy they bring and how much they enrich our lives. We truly believe that the choices we make each day can contribute positively to our own good health, or negatively as the case may be, but the good ones help preserve the environment we enjoy and share today and on behalf of future generations. PAWlease join us in this commitment to live in peace and harmony with all living creatures.

Thank you for your interest in our work and for your support. 

Pictured in our own yard is our Belgian Groenendael (GROW-nun-doll) dog Mirra as a pup discovering one of the good guys, a common garter snake. Thankfully no one was harmed in the making of that video. The snake was just as curious as Mirra was and neither were a threat to the other. Each went their own happy way after this face-to-face meeting.

M, M & Angel M
ecollage.org

Never have nor ever will use Roundup. 
Against it on SO many levels it is not funny. I hate to even mention it but it's why I decided to write this recommending much safer alternatives. If you feel the same, I may have some sound ideas for you, but it may not be what you think.

http://www.naturescountrystore.com/roundup/

What is particularly disturbing is even though we know what we do about it, so many disregard that and indiscriminately use it anyway. Sadly, it is the most widely used chemical in the world today.

There really ought to be a law against it.

Sometimes you need to just pull weeds, or grass that grows like one. Mother Nature is a miracle but at times, unwanted vegetation takes over, making it difficult or nearly impossible to manage. Perhaps you find that you are especially short on time. You can't get anyone to help you. Or maybe you are just fed up and about to do the unthinkable.

Before you go the route of drastic, remember most weeds are not harmful. Some things, like stinging nettles or foxtails are definitely unwelcome, but your average broadleaf dandelion doesn't bite, even though it may behave like a nutcase. Annoying, certainly. Worth using poison? Not really. Also, do your homework in advance with Poison Ivy and especially Poison Oak. NEVER EVER burn it. Know your enemy and be prepared with these guys.

Maybe, just maybe if it only affected your target pest, and it stayed exactly where you put it it would have its place. But, There is always drift, then there is run-off. It takes a long time to fully degrade too. It gets absorbed into other things that act as 'sinks' like non-target plants, trees, upholstered furniture, even clothing or the foam in car seats. Normal weather conditions such as temperature changes or humidity levels can cause it to revolatize. Even if you don't use it,  others who do make it your problem. The average home HVAC systems exchange indoor air with outdoor air roughly 6-10 times an hour, so simply staying indoors or closing your windows will not keep it out of your home or workplace. So you are inhaling it, tracking it indoors on clothing and footwear an you are being exposed to it. Residue will adhere to your pets paws and fur as they walk down the street or sidewalk with such wide use. They will likely even lick their paws. It is no wonder why there is so much cancer in dogs. It's a crying shame. Especially since so much is avoidable by not using herbicides! At least not without damn good reason. Cosmetic use of herbicides has been sharply curtailed or banned in progressive places like Canada and overseas. So what's wrong with most Americans? We must be mighty selfish or stupid. Probably both.

If you have a lot of weeds, you don't necessarily need to do anything drastic. Like insects, the world is chock full of them. It is mostly a matter of perception. Many of us seem perfectly fine accepting and working with Mother Nature. Having said that, weeds are also a symptom of poor soil health, so those who believe their property is the picture of health, resembling a golf course greenway, I am here to tell you it may not be as healthy or well cared for as one thinks. Lawns might look lush and green with an infusion of Nitrogen, but require routine chemical input to maintain a certain 'look', so even they can be turned into junkies. They end up seriously stressed and eventually weeds, brown spots or insects move right in. Kind of like being nutritionally deficient might cause a human to be fatigued, or overly susceptible to viruses. Could be your grounds are just plain neglected, affected by drought conditions or suffer from too much chemical input! You might consider to first check the pH of your soil in several places on your property. Label your baggies of  2-3 TBL (each) of soil with their locations to later help with your master plan of fixing it. You might begin this process at your county extension office or find a good Master Gardener group nearby. Most communities have them. Your lawn may behave much better with a correctly timed and simple lime application, for starters. The book we recommended in our first blog will address this in greater detail.

We have employed lots of tools in tending property, but it may be best to see it for what it is. A living organism! These tools do not always mean tools in a literal sense. Testing pH, planting appropriate vegetation, and we recommend using native plants whenever you can. Cutting or watering properly all play roles, even allowing clover to grow. Like ants, if it is around, it is there out of necessity. Nature is not without its own tricks of the trade folks. It's a naturally occurring nitrogen fixer, and interestingly only deemed a weed since the advent of the supposedly professional lawn services. That sounds a bit suspect to me! Not to make these recommendations too overly complex, we will just mention a few of the usual suspects, such as hand-held flamers, (propane) For weed removal. It's effective though learning the technique is critical to success. Another example of less is more: rather than torch the heck out of an offending plant, one takes it to the 'wilt stage' only. By doing so, the plant will use its reserves to try and 'save' itself. It hopefully goes without saying that this can be a potential fire risk under certain conditions. There is no excuse for not educating yourself in advance and using Safety first, always.

We have also tried corn gluten meal, believe it or not it is a pre-emergent herbicide, meaning it will only affect things that have not yet emerged (germinated) so the timing is key. Therefore, it won't have the desired effect on existing plants, noxious or not as a post-emergent would. It does have an added benefit of feeding your plants (which includes your lawn) already growing, but it could mean you feed the good along with the undesirables.

Corn gluten meal was (and still is) used as feed for livestock when it was accidentally discovered to be a pre-emergent.  I think in all the years since I first heard about it, a number of formulas now exist. If memory serves me well, the first was called "aMaizing Lawn."  Amazing!

http://eartheasy.com/article_corn_gluten.htm

If you were wondering how long it would take me to mention IPM again, I just find it both interesting and peculiar that things we use all the time have a secondary purpose as alternatives to toxic chemicals. For example, canola oil. It's actually listed as a pesticide, because it has been used to kill certain pests.

See this if you don't believe me:

http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_PC-011332_25-Nov-09.pdf

Although this should have been mentioned in our first Blog about Ants, it was my first. You have my apology for that. You may use it to deter ants from feasting on your hummingbird feeder. As it is, you graciously set it up for the birds.

It's as if a neon sign were flashing to ants and yellow jackets alike, making a bee line (pun intended) for it. They can't help it. As opportunists, it is an unwanted consequence of sugar-water left outside. Since I brought it up, you basically coat the feeder junctions where the hummers feed with the oil. Won't affect the birds but the varmints don't much care for it.

As usual, I have already gotten off point. 

What you do NOT want to do with what follows is spill it just anywhere, but that will also be explained.

The recipe I will share, for this nearly edible alternative herbicide, is considered non-selective too. To the novice that means, it will assume you meant for it to go where you put it and IT Will KILL Everything it comes into contact with. It may take more than one time of applying it but if you time things correctly, you will successfully albeit temporarily put your noxious weed to rest. If you are after broad-leafs alone, you won't do much very effectively unless you actually dig out the tap root. There are many exceptional manual tools you can find to help you accomplish this. It reminds me of my days in detention. The nuns made us do it with our hands, and in the full sun. We did not have access to sunscreen in those days. It was a barbaric practice.

Before you get too complacent however, realize it has some repercussions too. You can use it now and then, but there is salt involved. Yes, it is table salt. Sodium Chloride, good old NaCl. One can use a reasonably safe, edible thing too much too. I understand that for some individuals it can wreak havoc with blood-pressure. Years ago, that toxic product I mentioned before was actually forced to change its advertising when they claimed it was as safe as table salt. It clearly was not, nor is it now either.

First you need to line up your ducks. 
Since I mentioned that, Fauna are often used in IPM for pest control. The use of goats and even ducks or geese come to mind at present, for vegetation and insect control. That is for another day. You may already have what you need on hand, otherwise you will want to make a shopping list now.

A place like Costco may be your best bet to find the GALLON sized jug of plain white VINEGAR. You may use any generic version of it as well as your table salt. The latter should be granular, not rock salt. We shall mix a gallon of this, so you need 1 CUP of the SALT, Iodized or not does not matter. You will also need 1-2 TBL of a biodegradable liquid DISH SOAP. I use 7th Generation, fragrance-free of course.

But here is a good trivia question for you..
Did you know that there is a difference between the terms unscented v. fragrance free?
I feel another BLOG coming on.

Finally, you need the SUN.
Thank goodness you live on Earth.

If you have ever made Sun Tea, then you know we are headed outside. You do not need a very hot day to mix your concoction, but you will achieve optimal "Death Star" results if you check your forecast, mix and then apply it, minus wet conditions. This means any rain in advance or afterwards for at least 3-4 days. It will achieve much better results to forego when it's cool or even dew has drenched your plant material.

Why waste energy or water unnecessarily by warming your vinegar under a hot water tap when you may use the power of the sun to do it for you? Set the unopened gallon in the direct sun for a few hours. It need not be hot, but warming it helps it to mix more effectively.  Find a recycled yogurt container (surely you have a million saved by now) and pour a few cups of the vinegar out of the jug but reserve it. You will need it later. Cover and move it so you neither accidentally spill it nor your dog nor kids try to drink it. 

You will pour your cup of salt into the warmed vinegar then cover it. Though I do not recommend that you shake it vigorously, (unless you planned to take a spontaneous shower) you want to encourage it to dissolve. It may not do so completely but don't worry about that. Gently rocking your almost full gallon or turning it up side down then right side up will do the trick. You likely will not use all of what you create playing mad scientist, so label your jug now, so you'll recognize it later. Call it what you like, but best to add what ingredients you used. Should it sit around awhile, unused (rest assured it will keep) but the salt may settle to the bottom. Next time you are prepared to use it, just repeat the warming in sun to incorporate the salt solids back into the suspension of the vinegar/soap liquid solution but you won't be adding anything new next time.

The last few steps are simple. You want to mix it as well as you possibly can before adding your dish soap. The soap acts as the surfactant (helps it stick to the plant you want to affect) to help your alternative product vinegar/salt (so far, edible) but it still should not be left around where little kids or pets can ingest it. Even though it would be a million times safer than that other junk I mentioned at the outset, it might cause some stomach upset. Nobody wants that.

The reason you wait to add your soap will soon become clear. Especially if you skipped ahead and added it already! The soap makes bubbles and displaces the vinegar and salt in your gallon container. Suddenly the gallon jug is no longer adequate for your mad scientist needs. 

You may replace the excess vinegar you poured out initially whenever your jug can handle the excess. Now you find a SPRAY BOTTLE and please-- start with a new one. Some things just SHOULD NOT be repurposed. When chemicals are involved, you can get yourself in all kinds of trouble. 

A perfect example of what NOT to do is: NEVER EVER mix Chlorine Bleach and Ammonia. NOT just in the same bucket, or other receptacle. NOT in the same room!  The safest way to go is just not use them. IF you insist upon it, pick ONE or the OTHER. Since Chlorine is used in water treatment, it may be the safer choice, but that is your decision. This way you will never have that potential for serious harm. It produces a gas called CHLORAMINE.

http://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJM199909093411115

PLEASE Do NOT REuse things just because they may be empty. You don't want to risk making something reasonably edible downright TOXIC by not knowing what on earth may have been in there previously. 

I'm not joking.

We have one of those pump garden sprayers, but we know that it is ok to use as nothing but water and the mad scientist recipe has been in it.  It was purchased new 16 years ago, but I was injured almost 27 years ago, so I know for sure it is SAFE to use because of my own history.  I Repeat, do NOT use one that may have been sitting in your garden shed or garage for a year OR 10 that you may have used for God-only- knows-what that you figured was rinsed well enough to store. This is also not an item you should pay a dollar for at a yard sale. Just start new!

If you have sensitive skin, you may wish to wear gloves and safety-glasses when you spot treat your offenders. It can be an irritant, so best to play it safe than sorry. We have a lot of fence area, and there is one section on the north side of the orchard that produces the crab grass from Hell. I swear it must have been crossed with titanium, making it virtually impossible to cut or pull. If it gets too obnoxious, (and it will) every few years even I can be challenged to a duel. That is has been killed off to nothing about 3 times in 16 years, AND that it is as healthy as a horse today, speaks to the 'it will probably grow back' principle. Finally, let's say you neither have a sprayer, a new spray bottle and insist you don't want one, and you are familiar with what a wick-wand application method is, feel free to try that. Since I am not recommending that, I will leave you to Google it if interested. That practice would be ok on pavers, sidewalk, roadway or driveways. The dabbing technique likely won't work well elsewhere since it will favor dripping. Where your solution drips, it will adversely affect your vegetation. That means it will kill it.

Then, do not water anywhere near it and this is why you do not want to apply with the threat of precipitation. You just do not want to dilute it. Then, walk away. 

Compost, garden, play with the kids or the dog, or cut the lawn. I would probably sit under the shade of one of the apple trees and sing that song (Don't sit under the apple tree with anyone else but me) to my dog -- Which I have been known to do. She has a killer sense of humor but I usually end up paying for it. Maybe she just doesn't care for my singing?

"Nah!"

Now you ask The SUN to work for you. Coupled with your alternative wanna be long chain fatty acid salty soap solution, or for the sake of continuity, the "mad scientist stuff" it will quickly start to brown out, and then it will die. Because it will look terrible and be very dry, (hence removal for more than just an unsightly reason is important if conditions you live in favor any fire risk). You may want to watch it for a day or two before removal since you may notice you missed a spot and need to repeat before you are done.

But, if you spill it elsewhere, expect to be nominated for the drunker sailor potty mouth award. You will non-selectively kill off stuff you did not want to. Don't get mad at me, I have warned you several times over now. So take care with it. It's that common sense scenario again. If you cultivate it, it will serve you well. 

The vegetation will eventually grow back as mentioned before. Most things do. Even when you use that TOXIC stuff and even things you don't want to come back but don't go nuts with this. Now and then, it won't adversely affect your soil. Use it like people do with that poison stuff, and it will get like the sand at the coast. Some plants will grow in salty conditions, but like anything, you need to know when to say when.

Should you want to go the direction of a professional service, I know someone I would recommend to get you started. His name is Phil Catron, a certified agronomist, who founded NaturalLawn of America. For more information, here you go:

http://www.naturalawn.com/

Let's end on an upswing, so to speak. Heard this just yesterday when I began this. Consider it directed to the guys out there but this too has a secondary benefit. It seems that pulling weeds and (tending a garden) may have multiple benefits; environmentally for one, perhaps economic and even for your health from an exercise or stress reduction standpoint. It also may be rewarding, growing your own food and giving your kids something meaningful to do, but if none of that is reason enough to take up this hobby, apparently it mimics the effect of a drug (evidently with a high need) since every other TV commercial I see is selling the pharmaceutical version (Viagra).

When I mentioned that to the husband, it brought about that really cute smile I expected. The guy keeps a massive organic vegetable, berry, herb and flower garden, not to mention an organic orchard, and that's just in his spare time!

I'm just saying... :) 

Thank you kindly if you have read 'No Ants in Your Pants' (our first Blog) and 'Pull Weeds for your Sex Life" (our second). I am going out on a limb here thinking the title of the second may facilitate more views than the first.

Still, Mirra & I thank you especially for visiting Mica's site and learning about IMHA. We may have to live as if my life depends upon it, (an explanation in the first blog referenced) but if you are inclined to join us, we welcome that. Each person can contribute something positive to the world we all have to share. I know that not everyone likes using toxic chemicals (especially around children or pets) and we commend you for you that, but many do not know there are alternative ways and means. It is in part why we are doing this. We hope that it helps you think outside the box.

PAWlease join us by becoming a member of Mica's Team.
Details at:

ecollage.org

M, M & Angel M

Ants get around. They tend to work with us, as beneficial insects, and much like spiders, if they are around, they are already on the job. Did you know the greatest deterrent to termites is an army of ants you don't even pay to protect your investment? If you have pets, they are working for them too, by addressing fleas, mites, and even tick populations.

Every now and then ants invade spaces where we see them simply as pests. So then what do you do? First, do no harm.

This is NO reason to reach for poison, nor ever a reason to exterminate. First, find out what you are dealing with. Trap a few and do your own research. I will recommend a book (below) that will allow you to do exactly that, or check your county extension office (usually a free service).

Next, determine why they are there, then devise a plan to discourage it.

If you cannot live with them, and also cannot use traditional chemicals, because you are chemically sensitive, like me, have pets or kids or just are more environmentally aware then good for you. You are way ahead of the game already!

It's the first step to being an IPM Practitioner. IPM stands for integrated pest management. To learn more:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/GENERAL/whatisipm.html
Don't get me wrong, I am not what you call a bug enthusiast. Not by any means. We often have little room in our lives for bugs, yet most people could tell you immediately their least favorite. IPM practices use the most reduced risk method (often least toxic) to problem solving which incidentally is the 'polar opposite' of traditional pest management, or the "see & spray" mindset.

To begin with, there are way more insects in the world than people, and we're only talking about one variety here. Next, there are so many types of ants, some sugar-loving, some protein-loving, among others, that simply killing a few, or even an entire colony, will only create a vacuum. Scouts are probably out looking for better digs as we speak.

Find out what they are looking for. Food, water, and habitat come to mind first, but mainly it's opportunity. Determine how they are gaining access into your home. Practical measures would be to get your trusty caulk gun out about now. Something that simple may just solve your problem. If not, no worries. You just go to plan B! What this sort of problem solving does is put you in charge. You simply break it down and use common sense. We all have it … Really.

Chances are one culprit is as little as crumbs left on the counter, or in the toaster. Accessible food (look at your pantry or cupboards about now) or pet food left out 24/7. Maybe the trash is not being emptied regularly. It could be a lack of screens, or a leaky pipe. Yes, they need water just like food.

You know for every one you see, there are likely already a few dozen (or more) you don't. Still I wouldn't panic. They follow invisible signals generally only they can smell, in the form of pheromones. So, if you see and kill a solitary one, or even a few dozen, another will pick up that trail. What you may not know about them may endear you to them for this reason alone.

If their seemingly tireless activity level (and if you do end up watching them for any amount of time they will tire you out) does not impress you outright, perhaps that they come for their dead will. That should say something about how they revere life. Yes, it's annoying to the people, but the ants will return. It is in part why using poisons is not a good idea, even if you can live with the long term hazards they WILL pose. I won't, for several reasons, but there are some practical things you can do to interrupt and stop an onslaught, or at minimum, redirect it to where you can co-exist.

I have seen people use all kinds of things, many I will not mention, such as banana peels, masking tape, or even just a vacuum cleaner. Just don't forget to empty and seal the bag, freeze, then dispose of properly, or their clan may show up to claim it! The first trick is to break the pheromone trails of the others on the prowl. A cloth wet with water and a mild dish soap will break a pheromone trail, but you may have to watch the ants navigate awhile to get all of these signals erased. Maybe it's just time to wash the floor? Some people try diluted white vinegar, which is an excellent choice for most things, and is considered a very 'green' (environment friendly) option. I have a blog planned for a weed killer you could probably drink, even though I still would never recommend that.  But vinegar, not for ants. Hazard to guess why?

One of the many pheromones ants produce is closely related to acetic acid, which vinegar is, hence they may actually seek out vinegar. Instead, pull out your olive oil and even some bay leaves first. A decent deterrent is to soak a cotton ball and place it at the spot where they are gaining access. You can do the same thing with bay leaves. Just please note two things: 1) not all ants will be deterred by the same things, just as not every option to eradicate them will work on all of them, and 2) use common sense even when utilizing edible things as bait or a deterrent.

Watch carefully how you deter ants or other pests, since chances are you are already distracted. If you have little kids or pets, such items can be accidentally ingested and cause a choking hazard or even an obstruction. (Sorry. the former firefighter/paramedic in me can't help but state the obvious). Then again, the use of toxic chemicals is NEVER ideal, but regardless you need to use common sense, especially with pets and little kids. Places not as readily accessible to the family but things ants think to use are window wells, but they can also use pipes (inside them or an open rail system)! Some people like to use the volatiles of citrus, and you may not know these fruit peels produce hydrocarbons that contain traces of d-limonene naturally, which just about every insect poison contains, or at least the synthetic derivative of it, which is far less safe. 

Even still, a deterrent is no real substitute for good hygiene and weather-proofing (or in this case pest-proofing) your home or workplace. Think about the bigger picture. Always. Another recommendation would be to learn more about the species of the pest you are hoping to conquer. Knowledge is power, after all and we are a lot bigger than they are. They may have strength in numbers, but many are nothing more than a temporary annoyance. Few pests carry the plague -- but that's another subject we can visit later. 

It may only be my opinion, but what you will get from a pest control outfit is first a hefty bill, a chemically contaminated environment, potential adverse health and the bottom line is that quite likely you will still have a pest problem. They will gladly accept your money, and even though they advertise that they are the professional, most have very little actual training. It is not rocket science to obtain a pesticide applicator license. Also, please do not assume if a chemical is sold, over the counter or one that requires a license to apply it, that it is necessarily safe. This subject is so complicated, that it will need to be addressed at a later date. Being assigned an EPA registration number and being on the market for 20 years is no safety claim friends.

Then, please listen very carefully to the guarantee that you get:  not that the pest will be gone, but If the pests return again, the company will come back and spray as often as is necessary, because there is something else they won't want you to know. Chemicals are cheap. You won't see that reflected in your bill of course, but most schedules tend to recur monthly, and quite often buildings and grounds are treated whether there is a pest problem or not. This becomes more and more an illusion. You either do not have a pest problem, or maybe you just don't think you have a pest problem. The spraying for potential pests is just wrong. It may be timed to keep the offending population down low enough so it seems as if a service is working for you. But it continues to require more chemical input, sometimes because pests have developed a resistance to the chemical. This causes different chemical classes, and likely even more hazardous compounds to be brought into the mix. If this was done properly in the first place, it likely would NOT require ongoing treatment. So how effective can it really be? Perhaps  enough to keep you complacent about your family and domicile being safe from bugs but at what cost? Finally, the scariest reason yet: Most chemicals do not degrade without direct sunlight, a great deal of time, and a lot of ventilation too. This may contribute to a really contaminated indoor environment, and it increases with each subsequent application. Further, your furnishings, carpet, drapes, even clothes, boxes, books and other belongings act as sinks.. sponges if you will, wicking up the volatile chemical residues, and you are well on your way to creating your own monster. Besides, your most vulnerable loved ones (kids & pets) are usually on the floor playing and that puts them in direct contact with these substances that are otherwise designed and built to kill living things. 

IPM may be new to you but it's been around awhile. Even the National Park Service maintains buildings and grounds using IPM and has practiced it for decades. Rarely a one size fits all concept, it can be applied to all kinds of things we as a species (meaning people) regard as PESTS, even weeds. Sometimes the fix is mechanical, and on occasion the end game may be a chemical, but even then there are multiple degrees of that. There would also be little reason to do a blanket application when a spot treatment or a monitoring and bait station would achieve even better results. More on this subject later. With ants, an endgame approach may involve a product like Drax. This option might be saved for use on the wood-loving or destructive type of ant, like the Carpenter variety, and only using an amount that would seem almost impossible to a human-sized organism to affect any degree of change: A boric acid solution that measures less than 1% could eradicate an entire colony. How this is achieved is a bait station is placed in an optimal location. It might be mixed with a small amount of mint-apple jelly, their favored bait. An ant, or ants feed on it, and take it back to the nest, where it is fed to other workers as well as their queen. This is a clear case where LESS IS MORE. For more information, you may wish to begin here:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/antscard.html

So before reaching for just any product on a supermarket shelf that you think will do the job because it reads CAUTION, WARNING, DANGER, or worse,  and is one that you may not even be able to pronounce properly without a dozen tries, at least contemplate the alternatives first. When you opt for the toxics, you also increase the potential for accidental exposure by storing or disposal of it. It will have to go somewhere eventually. Our landfills are already landmines! Even defenseless animals can be poisoned this way.

If you want a great place to start, this book is an exceptional resource. Can't recommend it highly enough.

• Darr, Sheila, Helga Olkowski, and William Olkowski. 1991. Common-Sense Pest Control. Newtown, CT: Taunton Press.

I was chemically injured but not because I was stupid or even careless. You may read about it in part on Mica's site under EcollageArt if you wish. Out of necessity, I have had to find other ways to accomplish tasks that others may simply take for granted. Yet this has led to some interesting things. A great example of this would be how one of the largest school districts in the U.S. adopted an IPM strategy district wide, after trying it my way at a single school. Because of their pest control policy, I was forced to ask them to accommodate my disability, even though I was not attending the school myself, though my daughter was. A consequence of what they were doing was making me really ill. I approached the administration with a request for them to at least try and work with me at the one school. Although it took some persuasion, they finally did. Perhaps they expected it to fail outright, but it had quite the opposite effect. The benefits were many too. The savings alone won them over within just a few months. It reduced the risks to students, staff, and the community at large. This example may have started out on a very small scale, but it ended up taking on a life of its own. It helps make the world just a little more accessible to someone like me, who has been injured for life, and having an open mind may keep you, or those you love, from becoming chemically injured too. Or perhaps just not contributing to more pollution, because you can.

I hope this helps the reader look at ants, or other pests  a bit differently, for starters and that you opt for a less reactionary approach to the sudden appearance of a couple of ants, or whatever the case may be. I would venture to bet that the chances are good that you will meet other pests in this life before you are done living, and maybe apply this way of thinking to other aspects in life. Who knows? You may find yourself adept at solving problems you previously left to a spray can, or a service. It may not only enhance your own knowledge base, but that which you impart upon your children at any age. To employ their own gifts for the benefit of their future. It may have the added benefit of saving you enough money for a trip to an exotic location where bugs are even more plentiful. It is a start to help reduce the use of poison in the world we all have to share. 

I ask you to consider the choices you make. I am not an entomologist, but actually do know several. I can picture them vividly when I wrote that I was not a bug enthusiast earlier on. WHY NOT comes to mind! The suggestions herein are merely practical things I have tried myself. There are no guarantees implied. This is intended to give the reader things to think about, different ways to problem solve, and to use your own talents to make the world a better place, one miraculous act at a time. 

Finally, please consider joining Mica's Team and help us find a cure for IMHA. We can go on thinking that what we do to the environment has no connection to IMHA or other disease or destruction. Sadly I don't know for sure but it is suggested otherwise. Speaking from experience you'd never want, know that there are consequences sometimes to just living your life. Yet some things just may be avoidable. What happened to me changed everything. So much so that now the actions of others makes a difference for me on a daily basis. Therefore, any positive contributions are greatly appreciated.

Please visit us at ecollage.org

Thank you.
Mel, Mirra & Angel Mica